As MR PORTER puts it, “espionage and looking smart go together like evil masterminds and long-haired cats.” This all began with the establishment of the OSS (Office of Strategic Services) in WWII America, from which the CIA emerged, inspiring Ian Fleming to write James Bond. Sean Connery was the beneficiary of a style transformation for Terrance Young’s first Bond film at the hands of Young’s tailor, Anthony Sinclaire of Conduit Street. This formed the basis of the “Conduit cut”suit. The suit was a slim, lightweight two-buttoned silhouette designed to handle anything Bond was doing. MR PORTER does a fantastic job in drawing the differences between British and American spy styles as evidenced in Dean Martin’s Matt Helm character that favored suede suits and turtlenecks instead of Harris Tweed.